Exploring Sandy Hook, NJ

There are some places that are so tied up with one’s family life, that there is almost a reluctance to share them with those not in the know. But I’m sure I am not the only New Jerseyan who feels that way about Sandy Hook - the little peninsula in Monmouth County that is part of Gateway National Recreation Area and equally part of our hearts.

It’s one of those local gems that has a real sense of place and feels cozy and communal despite its somewhat large area. There are lots of beautiful beaches up and down the east coast, but only Sandy Hook has its particular combination of history, nature, sport, community education, and non-fussy egalitarian beachiness.

Since most of Sandy Hook is owned and managed by the National Park Service, there are no boardwalks, no roller coasters, no pricey shops or tacky beach bars, and none of the things that tend to pop up around sandy places. Just folks enjoying a diverse natural ecosystem in a variety of recreational ways. Oh, and with a Coast Guard station, an old fort, and some odd military remnants thrown in. Sandy Hook contains over seven miles of beaches, a maritime forest, and Historic Fort Hancock.

What to do on a visit to Sandy Hook

Quick guide to Sandy Hook activities

Ocean beaches
You’ll find at least 6 ocean beaches on the right as you drive from the entrance. Each has services such as large parking area, rest rooms, showers, etc…. (more info below)
Bay beaches
On your left as you drive from the entrance you’ll see numerous spots to enjoy the bay. Popular spots include Spermaceti Cove and Horseshoe Cove. (map and more info below)
Military history
Lots of cool old fortifications and military hardware from when Sandy Hook defended New York Harbor from the Revolutionary War to post-World War Two (details below)
Sandy Hook Lighthouse
A truly historic lighthouse located at the far end of Sandy Hook. (read below for details on tours of the lighthouse)
Biking
A wonderful bike trail extends the whole length of Sandy Hook. (a full section on Sandy Hook biking is below)

A Beach for All Seasons: Exploring the beaches of Sandy Hook year round

During the summer season, lots of folks head to the varied bathing beaches of Sandy Hook. Take the Garden State Parkway to Exit 117, then follow Route 36 East for 12 miles, crossing the Highlands Bridge. It’s always exciting to see the ocean rise into view as you cross the bridge. A late afternoon fog hanging over it can take your breath away.

Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, lifeguards are on duty from 10 am to 6 pm at five beaches: South Beach Areas C, D, E, Gunnison, and North Beach. (Note: Gunnison Beach is clothing optional) There's a $20 charge for parking, but if you arrive early enough (park opens at 6 am!) or after 6 pm, you can get in for free. Just be aware there won’t be lifeguards before or after regular hours.

Restrooms and various concessions are available near bathing areas, though in general, it’s more lowkey than other NJ beach spots. As a national recreation area, Sandy Hook follows a strict “carry in, carry out” policy. So take your trash with you.

But Sandy Hook offers so much more than just a classic summer day at the beach. Due to its location between Lower New York Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, Sandy Hook has a diverse ecosystem with a large variety of wildlife.

When our son was young, he and his friends spent many happy hours netting little fish, crabs and other natural curiosities in the saltwater marshes and freshwater ponds on the bayside, especially at Horseshoe Cove Salt Marsh on the north end. It’s a rite of passage for fifth graders in our area to don hip-waders and spend a day seining in the bay as part of their science curriculum.

For me, I prefer the flatter waters of the bayside for swimming, as I’m not too adventurous about the surf. But if it’s waves you desire, the oceanside beaches certainly deliver. Pets are allowed on trails and on the bayside beaches, so it’s not unusual to see a happy pup playing fetch in the shallows.

Summer isn’t the only time we like to visit Sandy Hook. In fact, we enjoy it in all seasons. There are hiking and biking trails over the marshes and through the maritime forest areas that are beautiful as the seasons change. Wildflowers pop up in spring and trees turn gold and ruby red in autumn. Snow blanketing the marshes can be breathtaking as the winter waterfowl arrive.

Over 300 species of birds stop over and rest in the park during their spring and fall migrations, not to mention the permanent residents. I can’t even count how many of my “life birds” have been spotted at the Hook. Brants, Killdeer, American Oystercatchers, and those tiny delightful Golden-Crowned Kinglets just to name a few off the top of my head.

And have I mentioned the Osprey? They are a constant sight at the Hook from March to September; it’s almost hard not to see one hovering over the water, diving for a fish, or working on a nest during this active season. Platforms have been built in the area as an encouragement to the osprey to nest and breed. Wildlife thrives all around, in all seasons, as Sandy Hook buzzes with life.

Map of Sandy Hook from the National Park Service website.

Taking a ferry from NYC to Sandy Hook

During the summer season the Seastreak ferry operates daily from E. 35th Street or Wall Street in New York City to Sandy Hook. It’s a very easy way to escape the city for the Jersey Shore in about 35 minutes.

The ferry is a very nice with air-conditioning cabin and an open air top deck. The top deck is great for when you pass the Statue of Liberty and under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge. There is also full-service bar with cocktails, beer, wine, sodas, coffee, and snacks.

You can find the schedule and purchase tickets on the Sandy Hook ferry website.

The Sandy Hook - NYC ferry leaves Sandy Hook in the early evening.

Biking in Sandy Hook, NJ

We particularly recommend exploring Sandy Hook by bike. The Multi-Use Pathway (MUP), shared by hikers, bicyclists, and in-line skaters, is an excellently maintained five-mile paved trail that starts at the park entrance and ends in Fort Hancock at the ferry dock in front of the Chapel. It is relatively flat, (but not in a boring way!) and much of it is shaded as it winds through thick groves of trees and wild things. One of my favorite biking trails in the state - ain’t gonna lie!

We usually do this trail in reverse; parking at the Fort Hancock end by the Lighthouse and biking south toward the entrance of the park. At that point, we sometimes kept going into SeaBright for lunch! Or you can just turn around at any point and ride back. We like making the full ten-mile round trip, but you don’t need to do that much in order to enjoy this really wonderful ride.

We’ve witnessed beautiful sunsets and beach vistas on this trail, and the shady tree-lined spots are busy with birds, bunnies, and deer. One of my favorite things to do while biking through is just to listen - trying to identify every bird song as I go by. I love when the Red-winged Blackbirds show up in springtime to perch on signs and tall grasses, bleating out their calls, and when Catbirds “meow” to each other in summer.

Stopping at the swimming beach areas for a food truck ice cream or a look at the surf is also a fun treat, as well as passing the old cannon, missiles, and other bizarre hardware that seems to pop up unexpectedly. Just be mindful of stop signs and the walkers and skaters who share the trail!

We enjoy doing this, particularly as a summer evening ride, getting to the park after 6 pm to avoid the parking fee. We pick up a sandwich before we get there and share a picnic dinner by the Lighthouse area, then start our ride. (Mindful to carry out the trash of course!) Pro tip: There are usually bathrooms open at the start of the ride.

There is a bike rental operation at the far end of Sandy Hook by the ferry dock. You can see more on the company website.

Exploring the Military History of Sandy Hook, NJ

Sandy Hook has a unique coastal history, and I think this is what makes it particularly interesting. There is just so much going on to pique one’s curiosity! Geologically, Sandy Hook is what is called a large “sand spit” or barrier spit - an extension to a barrier peninsula.

This “hook” of land is separated from the mainland by an estuary of the Shrewsbury River. The peninsula encloses Sandy Hook Bay and this land position, with its sheltered waters, makes it a successful sanctuary for coastal wildlife. It also makes it a convenient place for ships to anchor before proceeding into Upper New York Harbor.

The north end of the peninsula is the site of the defunct US Army post Fort Hancock. The fort protected the harbor from 1895 to 1974 with some pretty impressive heavy artillery. It is also the site of the old Sandy Hook Proving Ground, where ordinances were tested from the time of the Civil War until 1919. Later it became the site of a Nike Missile defense installation - one of a very few such stations that are still intact.

You can actually still see defunct missiles at the entrance. Almost all of the fort's gun batteries are closed to the public due to their hazardous condition, but some are open periodically for tours.

Battery Gunnison is being restored by volunteers and has two six-inch guns installed that were placed there in 1976. Guided tours show visitors a Nike missile, the missile firing platforms, and a radar station featuring 1960s-era computers. The placing of these armaments over different time periods speaks to the unique relationship between New Jersey’s valuable coastline and New York’s busy harbor.

Train tracks used to take munitions to a mortar battery

A lot of Fort Hancock is crumbling away, but there is an effort to repurpose some of the buildings, many of which used to be officers’ quarters. It’s interesting to remember that many people who worked for the US Army, US Coast Guard, US Lighthouse Service, and US Life-Saving Service lived here with their families long before it came under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service. The peninsula was their home, where they lived, shopped, worshiped and attended school.

One of the buildings on Officers’ Row, (#18) is the headquarters for the New Jersey Litoral Society. NJLS does amazing work to preserve and raise appreciation of our vulnerable coastline environment through advocacy, conservation, and education. They manage conservation programs and sponsor all sorts of hands-on, nature-oriented events, like the one previously mentioned that my son participated in as a fifth grader. If this is something that entices you, definitely check out their website, as there is too much for me to write about here!

I am always intrigued by areas that juxtapose beautiful and delicate natural environments with heavy-duty manmade machinery. Kennedy Space Center and Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge come to mind, where rockets and loggerhead turtles coexist. I guess we all need the same conditions to make things work. Coasts have always been important resources for humans, but we can’t forget that we share these precious spaces with creatures great and small. Ok, stepping down from the soapbox now.

I do hope that more of these historic buildings are restored in time, but it’s important to note that not every structure of interest at Sandy Hook is old and crumbling!

There is an active US Coast Guard Station north of Fort Hancock, on the western part of “the hook”. It is one of the original Life Saving Stations built in 1848. As it is an active station, it is not open to the public, but you can sometimes see their cool watercraft doing their exercises.

Another active and rather unusual facility you might get a glimpse of across the bay in shadowy silhouette is nearby Naval Weapons Station Earle. Its 2.9-mile (4.7 km) pier in sheltered Sandy Hook Bay provides an area where ammunition can be loaded and unloaded from warships at a safe distance from heavily populated areas.

It’s been in operation since 1943 and with my overactive imagination, it does give me a ghostly WWII vibe. Somewhat deliciously, the US Navy’s website describes it thus: “This desirable area serves as an ‘escape’ for people living or working in New York City and has been listed in "The New Yorker" as one of the best places to live in the country.”

And of course, let's not forget the romantic and pristine white Sandy Hook Lighthouse, set on the grounds of Fort Hancock many moons ago to help navigate this tricky sandbar. It is notably the oldest working lighthouse in the United States and designated a National Historic Landmark. Restored in 2000, NPS Park Rangers currently offer free tours every half hour from 1:00 pm. until 4:30 pm on most days. Views from the top are of the Atlantic Ocean, Sandy Hook Bay, and the NYC skyline.

Next to the Lighthouse, in the recently restored Building #53, is a wonderful little shop called McFly’s On The Hook. It is just the kind of little joint with a sense of place that I love. McFly’s sells snacks, beverages, ice cream, T-shirts, and COLD BREW! (yay) along with other assorted sundries for a delightful diversionary stop. Hope it stays in business! (Cash only!!)

Recreational activities you can enjoy at Sandy Hook, NJ

Well, it’s not called a national “recreation area” for nothing - if you enjoy pretty much any type of shore-related activity, you can do it at Sandy Hook. Besides the biking, hiking, and swimming already mentioned, Sandy Hook is a wonderful place to fish, kayak, windsurf, and kite-board.

Fishing is allowed on all beaches except when lifeguards are on duty and permits are available at the ranger station.
Non-motorized, car-top recreational boats can be launched from Beach Area C and Horseshoe Cove.
Windsurfing and kite-boarding are very popular on the bay across from Beach Area C. (We really enjoy watching the kite-boarders do their thing even though we don’t do it ourselves. Especially at sunset, it’s like watching a colorful dance on the water.)

And although I’ve already touched on it a bit, it merits repeating that Sandy Hook is a wonderful spot for birding and nature-watching. Good viewing locations include Plum Island, the Spermaceti Cove boardwalk, the Horseshoe Cove Salt Marsh, North Pond or the fields at Fort Hancock. The NJ Audubon Society hosts a Bird Observatory in Building #20 of Officers’ Row, where the latest birding information can be found. Bird walks and talks are also frequently scheduled by NJAS.

The National Park Service also schedules lots of interesting programs during the year, from talks on the importance of the return of Horseshoe Crabs to the peninsula every year to kayaking experiences, to butterfly walks in late summer when the migrating Monarchs seek a rest in dear old Sandy Hook.

So that’s this Jersey girl’s take on one of our favorite, very unique, and very Jersey places. But don’t just take my word for it, come on out and experience Sandy Hook, Gateway National Recreation Area for yourself. Bring your binoculars, bring your bike, your camera, fishing pole, or your kite-board, whatever gives you a thrill or makes you smile. Most importantly, bring your curiosity. Hopefully, you’ll carry home more than just your trash!

If you are looking for another Jersey Shore spot to visit, Asbury Park is a scenic half-hour drive away. You can read all about it in our post: Visiting Asbury Park.