Visiting the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain: 2026 Logistics & Best Pastries
Updated: August 19, 2026
We think the Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter represent the best of Paris: the cafe terraces, narrow streets plus the general vibe of enjoying a slower pace.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés (the 6th arrondissement) and neighboring Latin Quarter (the 5th arrondissement) have enough attractions to keep you busy for a day or make a great base for your Paris hotel. After visiting the area on previous trips, we decided to stay here on our most recent trip. We felt staying on the left bank of the Seine River had more of a neighborhood feel than across the river.
| Where | The 5th and 6th arrondissements, on the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) of the Seine. |
| Best Metro Stop | Saint-Michel Notre-Dame for arrival and the riverfront. Cardinal Lemoine (Line 10) for the Panthéon. |
| How Long to Spend | One full day covers the highlights. Two days if you like a slower pace. |
| Best Time to Visit | Weekday mornings for fewer crowds. Spring and fall are ideal. |
| Don't Miss | The Panthéon, Jardin du Luxembourg, and the hidden Arènes de Lutèce. |
| Worth It? | Yes. It is one of our favorite corners of Paris for the cafes, the old streets, and the slower pace. |
The beautiful and free Jardin du Luxembourg.
Our Quick Verdict on the Left Bank
Latin Quarter vs. Saint-Germain: Both are iconic, but they offer different vibes. The Latin Quarter is gritty, academic, and historic (think Roman ruins), while Saint-Germain is the polished, chic center of Parisian literary life. For a first-timer, these two neighborhoods represent the soul of the Rive Gauche (Left Bank).
- Best For: History buffs, book lovers, and those who want a "neighborhood" feel over the touristy Right Bank.
- Top Tip: Skip the 1-hour line at Shakespeare & Co; instead, walk 5 minutes to The Abbey Bookshop for a more authentic, line-free experience.
- Must-See: The Panthéon and the hidden Arènes de Lutèce (Roman amphitheater).
What's Open and Closed on the Left Bank
Paris can trip you up on the wrong day. Here is what to plan around before you set out.
| Place | Closed / Watch Out | Best Time to Go |
|---|---|---|
| Boulangerie Moderne (Emily's bakery) | Sat & Sun | Weekday mornings, go early |
| Terra Nera (Gabriel's restaurant) | Sunday | Lunch or dinner, Mon to Sat |
| Rue Mouffetard Market | Monday | Saturday or Sunday morning |
| The Panthéon | Open daily | First Monday of the month opens at noon |
| Jardin du Luxembourg | Open daily | Free, a safe bet any day |
| Arènes de Lutèce | Open daily | Free Roman ruins, any day |
What to see in Saint-Germain and the Latin Quarter
Since Saint-Germain and the Latin Quarter are adjacent arrondissements we’ll treat them as one for the purposes of what to see and do.
For reference, Saint-Germain is more of the area across the river from the Louvre while the Latin Quarter is the area generally across from Notre Dame Cathedral. (see map)
Left Bank Logistics & Costs (2026)
| Attraction | 2026 Price | Expert Tip / Metro Stop |
|---|---|---|
| The Panthéon | €13.00 - €16.00 | Cardinal Lemoine (Line 10). Prices jump to €16.00 during peak season (after April 1st). |
| Grand Mosque of Paris | €3.00 (Visit) / €3.00 (Tea) | Place Monge (Line 7). Essential stop for the best mint tea and baklava in Paris. |
| Place de l'Estrapade (Emily in Paris) | Free to visit | 2-min walk from Panthéon. Home to Emily’s apartment and Gabriel’s restaurant. |
| Boulangerie Moderne | €1.60 (Pastry) / €6.00 (NY Roll) | CLOSED ON WEEKENDS! Go Tuesday-Friday to avoid disappointment. Won 2nd best croissant in Paris! |
| Rue Mouffetard Market | Free to explore | Censier-Daubenton (Line 7). Best on Sunday mornings. Closed on Mondays. |
| Arènes de Lutèce | Free | Jussieu (Line 7/10). 1st-century Roman ruins. An amazing spot to escape the crowds for a picnic. |
| Jardin du Luxembourg | Free | Luxembourg (RER B) or Odéon (Line 4/10). Grab a green chair by the Medici Fountain. |
Exterior of the Panthéon.
The Panthéon
In 1744 King Louis XV was seriously ill and prayed to Saint Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris.
When he recovered the king promised the monks at the Saint Genevieve abbey that he would rebuild their ancient church. The ambitious project was completed in 1790 and was the highest point in Paris until the Eiffel Tower was built.
Among the highlights of a visit today are Foucault's Pendulum which swings from the dome, the crypt which is home to the final resting places of many famous French figures, frescoes by the famous French artist, Eugène Delacroix, and the view from the tower.
You can buy tickets for a self-guided tour, a self-guided tour with a visit to the tower for the view of Paris, or a guided tour on the Panthéon’s website.
Jardin du Luxembourg
Located between Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Latin Quarter, are the Luxembourg Gardens.
You can access the 62 acres of gardens, from several entrances: Place Edmond Rostand, Place André Honnorat, Rue Guynemer, or Rue de Vaugirard.
Visitors can wander the paths and admire the many statues. Certainly, the most impressive structure is the Palais du Luxembourg, which is the home of the French Senate.
| HOTELS | Booking.com Lots of search options. The customer reviews are very helpful. | Link ↗ |
| ACTIVITIES | Viator A wide variety of tours, food experiences and historical guides. | Link ↗ |
| AIRFARE | FareDrop Alerts for cheap flights customized by your home airport. | Link ↗ |
| PHONE | Airalo Easy to use eSIM for data and calls in every country. | Link ↗ |
| TRAIN TRAVEL | Trainline We book all our trains here. Easy to use and comprehensive listings. | Link ↗ |
The remains of a first-century Roman theater.
Emily in Paris locations
If you are a fan of the Netflix series “Emily in Paris” then no visit to the Latin Quarter (the 5th Arrondissement) without a quick stop by a few of the show’s main locations. Best of all they are very convenient, just a 2-minute walk from the back of the Panthéon.
The Apartment: Emily’s apartment is located at 1 Place de l'Estrapade. It’s a very pretty, quiet square with a fountain and a few benches
The Bakery (Boulangerie Moderne): Is located right next door. Boulangerie Moderne won 2nd Place for the Best Croissant in Paris in 2023, so they are a fantastic bakery. I
If you want to taste the award-winning item, you should order the Croissant au Beurre (Butter Croissant). While Emily loves the Pain au Chocolat, the 2nd-place award was specifically for the technical mastery of the plain butter croissant.
A Pain au Chocolat will cost you about €1.60 – €2.00 in 2026. If you want the famous "New York Roll" (the circular croissant), expect to pay €5.00 – €6.00.
Important Note - Boulangerie Moderne is closed on weekends
The Restaurant (Terra Nera): 18 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques. Gabriel's restaurant in the show. In real life, it’s a high-end Italian bistro. It is closed on Sundays
Arenes de Lutece
While many of Paris’ treasures are obvious and out in the open - The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, etc… some are much smaller and hidden.
Arenes de Lutece is the ruins of a first-century Roman theater that could once seat 15,000 people.
The entrance is almost hidden between two storefronts. You could walk by and not even notice it but please don’t, it’s certainly worth a few moments to be transported so far back in history.
Jardin des Plantes
The garden was created in 1626 by King Louis XIII as a royal medicinal herb garden. Today it covers over 75 acres.
Not only is Jardin des Plantes the main botanical garden in France but it is also the home to the National Museum of Natural History and the second-oldest public zoo in the world still in operation.
There are also a number of large greenhouses that display plants from throughout the world.
The gardens are free but the museum requires a ticket that can be purchased here.
Inside the Grand Mosque of Paris.
Grand Mosque of Paris
On our last trip to Paris, we were looking for something a little different and found the wonderful Grand Mosque of Paris. It's located just a short walk from Jardin des Plantes.
The Mosque has a fascinating history and its members helped hide many Jews during the Nazi occupation of France.
The mosque’s buildings surround a peaceful garden.
We wrote a full blog post about the Mosque here: Visiting the Grand Mosque of Paris
Walking Rue Mouffetard toward the Panthéon.
Rue Mouffetard
Rue Mouffetard is one of the oldest and most picturesque streets of Paris. The street is closed to traffic so it’s easy to walk the narrow lane.
This street was an inspiration for Victor Hugo when he wrote Les Miserables. Today the street is still a tiny bit rough around the edges so Victor would certainly recognize the vibe.
We had lunch at a small family-operated Greek restaurant and watched the interesting characters walk by.
It’s close to the Pantheon and worth a visit, how often can you walk along a 2,000-year-old street?
Pro tip - The market is busiest on Sunday mornings and many stalls are closed on Monday.
Rue de Buci
Rue de Buci and the surrounding streets capture the essence of Saint-Germain. Small streets loaded with restaurants, bars, and shops.
On this trip to Paris, we did our best not to overload the schedule and took time to bask in the flavor of Paris. The area around Rue de Buci is perfect for sitting and relaxing.
Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots, and the Fame Trap
You will see these two cafes on every Paris must-visit list. They sit across from each other in Saint-Germain. Both are beautiful and famous. Writers like Hemingway and Sartre once filled their tables.
Here is our honest take. Debbie and I have a rule. We skip places that are popular only because they are famous.
A spot like that does not have to be good. The food can be average. The prices stay high. There will always be a new crowd tomorrow. The reviews for both cafes are mixed for exactly this reason.
Think about the math of a trip. You only get a few lunches and a few dinners in Paris. Why spend one on a meal that will probably be forgettable?
You find these spots in every big city. We see the same thing with attractions tied to a famous book or movie. People line up for the Elephant House cafe in Edinburgh. It calls itself the birthplace of Harry Potter. J.K. Rowling herself has said that is not true. She had been writing the books for years before she ever set foot inside.
So here is what we do instead. Paris is one of the best food cities in the world. A quick scan of Google reviews will point you somewhere great. Walk five minutes off the famous corner, and you will usually eat better for less.
Don't believe the hype.
Shakespeare and Company
People wait in line outside Shakespeare and Company.
Ok, I left this until last on the list because I was almost just going to ignore it. Unfortunately, every guide mentions the Shakespeare and Company bookstore so I thought I should give my two cents.
My personal take is that it has a mildly interesting history but is in no way worth standing in a long line. It’s very centrally located so we took a walk by on our most recent trip and yup, there was a very long line.
Your goal should be avoiding lines in Paris (early entry tickets, etc…) but if you have to wait in line please make sure it’s to visit a global icon like the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre not for a quick visit to an overcrowded bookstore.
Ok, I feel better now :-)
Pro tip - Instead of waiting in line walk 5 minutes to The Abbey Bookshop (29 Rue de la Parcheminerie). This hidden gem is owned by Brian Spence, a lovely Canadian expat. It offers that same floor-to-ceiling 'stacks of books' vibe with almost zero wait. Look for the small table outside, they often have free coffee waiting for browsers! If visiting on Sunday be sure to check their hours, they typically don’t open until 1pm.
Leave time to find your own favorites
On our first trip to Paris, we stumbled across a patisserie called A. Lacroix Pâtissier. It’s located directly across the Seine from the Notre Dame Cathedral. We sat inside their huge front window looking out at the cathedral.
We loved the food and the view and have now stopped by on three different trips. Our son even stopped by on a solo trip to Paris. It’s so much fun to have “our place in Paris”.
There are many famous cafes in the Left Bank and many of them are great, but don’t forget to find your own special place too.
Where to stay in the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain-des-Prés
If you are coming from Charles de Gaulle Airport, the RER train will leave you off at Saint-Michel Notre-Dame; no need to switch trains.
The best thing about this stop is that you come out and there is Notre Dame; welcome to Paris.
On our most recent trip to France, we splurged on fantastic hotels in Marseille and Eze, so we needed to rein in the budget for our Paris accommodations.
On a side note - we never used to splurge on hotels, but on rare occasions, we now think it’s absolutely worth it. Read our blog posts on Eze, and you’ll see what I mean.
In Saint-Germain, we stayed at Hôtel de Fleurie and in the Latin Quarter, we stayed at Hôtel du Collège de France. Both are solid mid-level hotels with great reviews. For our last night in Paris, we reserved a room with a balcony and will remember it for many years to come.
Here are some other well-reviewed hotels:
Relais Hotel Du Vieux Paris
Part of the upscale Relais chain but with reasonable prices.
7-minute walk to Notre Dame.
Right near everything but located on a side street so it’s quieter.
More information and booking details are here.
Hotel Dame des Arts
It's a bit of a splurge hotel but with lots of benefits including a view of the Eiffel Tower from their rooftop bar.
Variety of rooms available, including connecting rooms.
More information and booking details are here.
View of the Eiffel Tower from Hotel Dame des Arts’ rooftop bar. Photo courtesy of Expedia.
Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain FAQs
Is the Latin Quarter worth visiting?
Yes. It is one of our favorite parts of Paris. The streets are old and full of character. You get Roman ruins, a huge free garden, and some of the best pastries in the city. It also has a real neighborhood feel. We think it is a great place to slow down and enjoy Paris.
What is the difference between the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain?
They sit right next to each other on the Left Bank. The Latin Quarter is the older, more academic side near the Sorbonne. Saint-Germain is the polished, chic side known for its cafes and literary history. Most visitors move between the two without even noticing where one ends and the other begins.
Is it better to stay in the Latin Quarter or Saint-Germain?
Both make a great base. We have stayed in each. Saint-Germain feels a little more upscale and quiet. The Latin Quarter is livelier and often a bit cheaper. Either one puts you within walking distance of Notre Dame, the Seine, and plenty of good food.
How many days do you need for the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain?
You can see the main sights in one full day. We like to give it more time. Two or three relaxed days let you wander the side streets and linger over coffee. That slower pace is really the whole point of the Left Bank.
Is the Latin Quarter safe?
We have always felt safe here, even in the evening. It is a busy, lively part of Paris with lots of people around. As with any big city, keep an eye on your bag in crowded spots and on the metro. Pickpockets go where the tourists are.
What is the best metro stop for the Latin Quarter?
It depends on where you are headed. For Notre Dame and the riverfront, use Saint-Michel Notre-Dame. For the Panthéon area, Cardinal Lemoine on Line 10 works well. For Rue Mouffetard and the Grand Mosque, Place Monge on Line 7 is closest.
Where was Emily in Paris filmed in the Latin Quarter?
Emily's apartment is at 1 Place de l'Estrapade, a quiet square just behind the Panthéon. The bakery from the show, Boulangerie Moderne, is right next door. Gabriel's restaurant, filmed at Terra Nera, is a two-minute walk away. All three sit close together and are easy to see in one stop.
About the Authors
|
John and Debbie O'Boyle are the team behind The Empty Nest Explorers. John is a professional photographer whose work has been published by The New York Times, NBC News, and Getty Images. He is a member of the American Society of Media Photographers, has been part of a Pulitzer Prize-winning team, and has received two New York Emmy nominations. Debbie is a writer and photographer with 30+ years of experience, formerly with The Star-Ledger and NJ.com. Together, they create in-depth travel guides for couples and empty-nest travelers who want to make the most of every destination. |
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