Visiting the Royal Yacht Britannia, a floating palace in Edinburgh
Visiting the Royal Yacht Britannia was a real highlight of our stay in Edinburgh. We found it uniquely interesting and something a little different than the typical “royal attraction” of gilded palaces or ancient castles. The ship is unpretentious but elegant, and a snapshot of 20th-century royal diplomacy and understated luxury.
HMY (Her Majesty's Yacht) Britannia is permanently berthed at the Ocean Terminal in Leith, Edinburgh, Scotland, where today it is a museum run by The Royal Yacht Britannia Trust. The rooms are still arranged pretty much as they were left when the ship was retired in 1997, which is such a fascinating glimpse into the royal lifestyle.
Looking over the bow of HMY Britannia, in the port of Leith. All Photos by John O’Boyle / The Empty Nest Explorers
Britannia was used by Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip extensively for 44 years, both officially and personally. As a peek under the royal hood, so to speak, it is recent but not current - frozen from a time just out of reach, and a phenomenon we are not likely to see again. Which honestly, feels like a loss.
When you think about the Queen arriving at Penn’s Landing in Philadelphia for a visit to the USA in its bicentennial year in 1976, stepping down from her elegant yacht, a British monarch returning by sea as a friend - well that’s some pretty exciting staging. Britannia played that kind of role all the time, but there is nothing like it for today’s monarchy.
The “floating palace”, as it has sometimes been dubbed, was genuinely a special place for the Queen and her family. She famously said that Britannia was the "one place I can truly relax."
It might sound corny to say, but when I stepped aboard, I could feel the joy. Maybe I just like ships, but there is certainly a special magic about HMY Britannia.
| 📍 Location | Ocean Terminal, Ocean Drive, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6JJ. About 2 miles from the city centre. |
| 🚇 Getting There | Edinburgh tram to Ocean Terminal, about 20 minutes from the centre. Buses 10, 16 and 34 also run direct. Free multi-storey parking. |
| 🎟️ Tickets | Around £23 adult, roughly half that for children. Under 5 free. Cheaper online, includes audio guide and a 12-month pass. |
| 🕐 Hours | Open daily almost all year. First entry usually around 9:30am summer, 10am winter. Closed Dec 25 and Jan 1. Check the official site. |
| ⏳ Time Needed | About 2 hours on average. Many visitors stay 3 to 4. |
| ☕ On Board | The Royal Deck Tearoom serves tea, scones and light lunch with big windows over the water. |
| 👑 Best For | Royal history fans, rainy days (mostly sheltered), all ages. |
Is the Royal Yacht Britannia Worth Visiting?
Yes, we think it is. It’s so easy to get there if you are spending any time in Edinburgh that it hardly requires a plan. It is such a different and interesting site to visit, both for its historic value and its “royal” angle. Plus, there is just something exciting about stepping aboard a ship.
The ticket isn’t too expensive (about £23 for adults; less if you book online ahead), considering that you can spend a good amount of time there; it is self-guided and your time isn’t limited. Plus, it’s a good rainy day option (always a factor in Edinburgh!) - much of it is inside or under shelter. You still get a little sea air on the open deck, but you can skip that part if the weather turns.
The Royal Deck Tearoom is a delightful highlight and we recommend rounding out your day with tea & scones (as we did) or with lunch onboard.
The bow of HMY Britannia
HMY Britannia appeals to more than just those interested in royals. Our 25-year-old son, who is not particularly interested in royalty, enjoyed this visit immensely - more than he expected, I think, and he kept referring to it throughout our stay in Scotland. As someone with a particular interest in logistics and transportation, I think the concept of the “floating palace” and the Queen making official visits in this manner fascinated him.
He definitely had the quote of the day when, standing on deck, he said, "I can't believe they put the Queen of England on this little boat and said, see you in Singapore."
He had a point. For a woman of her status to be sailing the world by yacht feels wonderfully old fashioned. And might I say, just a little daring! (But of course, Her Majesty was always in the capable hands of the Royal Navy.)
I’m not sure which Edinburgh activity our son enjoyed more - the Britannia or the Johnnie Walker Experience! (though I suspect Johnnie wins for a 25-year-old!) But Britannia was certainly a close second.
My point is I think it is the kind of attraction that appeals to everyone. Who doesn’t love a beautiful boat?
In fact, HMY Britannia has repeatedly topped Tripadvisor's Best of the Best awards, named the No.1 attraction in the UK several times and, most recently, the No.1 attraction in the world. (what!!!)
I might take that with a healthy pinch of salt, however. As much as I enjoyed it, Britannia can't really be compared to iconic locations like the Eiffel Tower or the Sagrada Familia. Perhaps the folks there have just gotten good at getting guests to leave reviews on Tripadvisor! 😉
That being said, it is a five-star attraction in my book - and many others’! I would highly recommend it if you are spending time in Edinburgh.
A view toward the stern of HMY Britannia as we boarded.
How to Get to HMY Britannia
By tram:
The easiest way from the city center is the Edinburgh tram. The Newhaven line stops at Ocean Terminal, right by the entrance, and the ride runs about 20 minutes.
The Edinburgh trams are a great way to get around the city, very easy to use.
By bus:
Lothian Buses 10, 16, and 34 also go direct and stop outside.
(Lothian Buses in Edinburgh use tap-to-pay with contactless cards and phones via their TapTapCap automatic capping system.)
By car:
Britannia sits in Leith, about 2 miles from the centre.
Address: Ocean Drive, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6JJ. Your tour starts on the second floor of Ocean Terminal.
There is free multi-story parking at Ocean Terminal Shopping Center.
It seems a little strange at first that you need to walk through a shopping mall to get to the entrance of something so elite and dignified as a Royal Yacht. But it’s all good - lots of signs to point you the right way, and there are options for eating there if you don’t want to eat aboard the ship. Also check out the ‘Lego Britannia’ on display there! It’s 11 feet long and no detail has been left out.
Debbie and John on the deck of Britannia. Just beyond where we are standing are the Royal Bedrooms, where the portholes are higher up, so the crew couldn’t accidentally “peek in”.
Hours and pricing for HMY Britannia
Britannia is open daily almost all year. First entry is usually around 9:30am in summer and 10am in winter, with the last entry a couple of hours before its closing time about 6pm in summer and 5pm in winter. It is closed on Christmas Day and New Year's Day.
Adult tickets run around £23, with children roughly half that and under 5s go free. Booking online is a little cheaper than the gate, and your ticket includes the audio guide plus a 12-month annual pass.
See the HMY Britannia official site for current prices and specific times for your date.
Britannia by the Numbers
| Years in royal service | 1953 to 1997, about 44 years |
| Nautical miles sailed | Over 1 million (about 1,087,623) |
| Countries visited | 135 |
| Ports of call | More than 600 |
| Official voyages | 968 |
| Royal honeymoons on board | 4 |
| Decks you can explore | 5 |
| Crew at sea | Around 240 in total, including about 220 yachtsmen plus officers |
The Story Behind The Royal Yacht Britannia
HMY Britannia was commissioned in 1953 and used exclusively by Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, visiting 600 ports of call in 135 countries all around the world. From the Americas to Australia and New Zealand, Africa and Asia, Britannia served as a great ambassador of the British Monarchy, the Commonwealth, and United Kingdom trade and industry.
It also served as a way for the royal couple to get away for holidays, and the Queen truly loved it as a relaxing royal residence.
(While on land, the Queen loved Balmoral Castle, her holiday retreat in the Highlands. You can read our take at -Visiting Balmoral Castle, what to see and is it worth it.)
Over the course of 44 years of active service, HMY Britannia traveled more than a million nautical miles.
It was decommissioned in 1997, due to high operating costs and the massive £17 million expense required to repair and refurbish the aging vessel. Her final international voyage abroad was for the UK's handover of Hong Kong to the People's Republic of China in 1997.
The Visitor Center is the first stop, before you climb aboard, and don’t rush through it. It’s full of informative displays, historical photographs, and videos detailing the yacht's service for the British Royal Family. It really tells the ship’s story and gets you tuned up for your visit.
One of the most interesting things for me to discover was how much Prince Philip was involved in the design of Britannia’s private spaces, probably more so than the Queen herself! His naval background would have been a rather nice fit with shipboard life, and it’s in keeping with his legacy that his influence was quietly behind the scenes.
In fact, Philip had his own adventures aboard Britannia. He journeyed aboard the newly commissioned Royal Yacht as part of a 40,000-mile global diplomatic mission that took him far and wide in 1956 -1957. He sailed to regions including Australia and the Antarctic, becoming the first Royal Family member to cross the Arctic Circle.
The Queen donated Prince Philip’s Dress Mess and his No.1 Dress uniforms of Admiral of the Fleet for display on the ship as a touching tribute after his passing in 2021. One is in the Visitor Center and the other is in a display case in the corner of the Duke of Edinburgh's private sitting room onboard. The second one surprised me for some reason, and it took me a minute to realize what I was looking at. But when I read the card - well I can’t say it didn’t choke me up a little!
Despite the longevity of Elizabeth II’s record breaking reign, Britannia is the only royal residence that was truly her own - she was the only monarch to ever use it. But that’s not the entire story.
The Ship King George VI Never Sailed
Though we totally associate HMY Britannia with Elizabeth II, the ship was really her father's idea.
Way back in 1939, during his royal tour of North America, the king got a bee in his cap about having an oceanworthy royal ship on which he could do diplomatic voyages. The trip to Canada had been made on a passenger liner; preserving Navy vessels for the situation developing in Europe. The existing royal yacht at the time, Victoria and Albert III, was primarily restricted to European and coastal waters - it did not have the structural capacity to cross open oceans.
A portrait of King George VI on display on the Queen’s desk on HMY Britannia. This photo was taken by Cecil Beaton in 1942.
Inspired by the success of the trip, George VI was eager to continue to apply his “new idea of kingship” which was “more in tune with the people and their interests” and not “the old high hat business” of previous generations. He envisioned a ship much like the ocean liner he had traveled on to Canada - a yacht with complete ocean-going capacity and designed as a Royal residence to entertain guests around the world. These thoughts he expressed to Canadian PM Mackenzie King in a gab session, who recorded it in his diaries, and that’s where these quotes come from.
With the outbreak of the Second World War, the king had to shelve the idea. Victoria and Albert III was decommissioned from royal service that same year, and put to work for the war effort, first serving as a depot ship and later as an accommodation ship to HMS Excellent. It would eventually be broken up in 1954.
But the King never abandoned the idea of an ocean-capable yacht, especially as the British Empire began to contract. It was his 1947 trip to South Africa on a Royal Navy battleship (once again, not a proper royal yacht) that made the case undeniable.
George VI felt the loss of his empire in the late 1940s very keenly - but he accepted it, and was eager to embrace his new role as Head of the Commonwealth. A ship like Britannia could project the power of state, much in the way the Air Force One does for the United States. It is more than just transportation. It’s a statement.
Unfortunately, the King was also seriously ill by the early 1950s. Those around him believed a convalescence cruise at sea might help his recovery - a hope that ultimately helped to push the plan forward. The British government announced plans to build the yacht in October of 1951, only weeks after the King had undergone a harrowing operation to remove his left lung.
But it’s not logical to think that such a large expenditure would have been approved for therapeutic reasons alone, even for a king - and obviously it couldn’t be built overnight.
George VI signed the formal commission for HMY Britannia, with all its new capacities, on February 4, 1952. He died two days later, on February 6. He never saw her built or sailed.
Queen Elizabeth II inherited both the throne and the unfinished ship on the same day.
At a private reception immediately following the launch ceremony of HMY Britannia on April 16, 1953, she told the royal yacht officers, shipyard staff, and officials of John Brown & Co. attending the luncheon onboard that the building of this ship had meant everything to her father:
"I am sure that all of you who are present here realise how much the building of this ship meant to the late King, my father. He felt most strongly, as I do, that a yacht was a necessity and not a luxury for the Head of our great British Commonwealth, between whose countries the seas are no barrier but the natural and indestructible highway. With the wise advice of the Admiralty and of your firm, he laid the plans of a vessel which should wear the Royal Standard in days of peace and which, in the event of a war, should serve the cause of humanity as a hospital ship."
A video of the 1953 Naming Ceremony of HMY Britannia runs in a loop at the Visitor Center
George VI had secured the ship for his daughter’s reign, and she totally made it her own. But it’s a shame he never saw his vision realized.
Right up until the night he died, he seemed hopeful about his condition. He was feeling better, and he had started enjoying some of his favorite activities again. According to his wife Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, he was a man “full of plans”.
Britannia was very much a part of those plans. But it was not to be.
George VI was a soulful man and one of my favorite historical figures. For those interested in royal history, I wrote a post about him inspired by my visit to Glamis Castle in Angus. If you want to have a look, you can find it at King George VI at Glamis Castle: a royal love story in Scotland.
Family photos, fresh flowers and modest furnishings adorn the State Drawing Room onboard HMY Britannia
Four Royal Honeymoons
When Britannia was in the peak of its glory, it was a honeymoon must for royal newlyweds. The privacy, and the ability to travel somewhere desirable without overspending, made it a perfect fit.
Charles and Diana, when Prince and Princess of Wales, spent part of their 1981 honeymoon aboard Britannia, cruising the Mediterranean for about 12 days. The crew were so good at dodging photographers that people called her ‘the ghost ship’.
Three other royal couples also honeymooned aboard. Princess Margaret and Antony Armstrong-Jones in 1960; Princess Anne and Mark Phillips in 1973; and Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson in 1986.
Oddly enough, all four of these marriages ended in divorce! (Coincidence or jinx?😱)
There’s an amusing little sidenote that the only double bed you will see in the Royal Apartments is in the “honeymoon suite” (also used as a guest room for important visitors, including the Reagans). The audio tour states that Prince Charles specifically requested the bed for his honeymoon. (Strange to me that he had to!)
That part of the tour gave me one of those feelings I often get when I visit these kinds of famous, but private spaces - like I’m an intruder, a gawker from the future passing judgement. But I am still fascinated! Human nature, I guess.
The Honeymoon Suite aboard HMY Britannia
The Famous Faces Who Came Aboard HMY Britannia
Elizabeth and Philip enjoyed the Royal Yacht as the perfect setting for family holidays with their children, but Britannia’s main mission was diplomacy. Many important guests, including royalty, global statesmen, and entertainment icons also came aboard, as the ship hosted a mix of formal “state” entertaining with informal “country house diplomacy” that is such a big part of what the royal family has always done so well.
The guest list is remarkable. Four US presidents came aboard: Dwight D. Eisenhower, Gerald Ford, Ronald Reagan, and Bill Clinton. Sir Winston Churchill dined on board, as did Nelson Mandela, Rajiv Gandhi, Boris Yeltsin, and Margaret Thatcher. And the list of stars who visited includes Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor and John Travolta.
Many of the gifts and mementos presented to the Queen from important guests and during international state visits adorn the white-panelled walls of the State Dining Room. It’s an eclectic collection, including a carved shark from Pitcairn Island and a narwhal tusk from Canada.
The international nature of these decorations give the State Dining room a “united nations” vibe.
The State Dining Room aboard HMY Britannia. Many famous people were hosted here, and international gifts adorn the walls.
What You'll See on Board HMY Britannia
The tour is self-guided with a handset audio guide, which you pick up from the Visitor Center before you board. It is available in a large selection of languages.
The Visitor Center itself is quite a treat, with lots of artifacts and photos to pore over. A display on a main wall shows a map of everywhere Britannia has been. It’s really something to look at that map adorned with colorful stamps and photos and just to take in the ambitiousness of it all. It inspired in me a sort of excitement I get from that particular period in history, like when I see displays from the early space era and moon missions. It’s a hopeful, outward facing energy. And it’s infectious.
One of my favorite items on display is the ship’s wheel from another famous yacht named Britannia, the sleek racing yacht of King George V. An avid racer, George V is credited with single-handedly reviving European "Big Class" yacht racing in the 1920s, after a period of decline. The king’s beloved yacht was scuttled after his death per his wishes; none of his sons were eager to take up the racing mantle. But many of the ship's riggings and fittings were preserved, and it’s a lovely surprise to see the wheel here.
It’s very exciting to approach the ship and walk up the gangway - always one of the delights of touring any kind of ship! Britannia is a very pretty vessel indeed, with its shiny dark blue hull and a strip of gold piping; and set against the open water of the port of Leith, it’s a joyous sight. (You definitely feel the urge to burst into a refrain of “Rule, Britannia!” - but maybe that’s just me!)
The gangway connects from the visitor center at Ocean Terminal directly to the upper deck of the ship. There is very good disability access with a connected bank of elevators for moving between decks.
There aren't very many signs, so your information really does come from the audio track of the headset, and listening to it sets your pace to a degree. But we weren’t in any kind of hurry.
You may notice how understated much of the decor is aboard Britannia - tasteful and elegant but pretty simple and not really very “queenly”.
There’s a reason for this. When Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip took over the plans for Britannia, they were concerned that the original interior designs were too lavish for a country still recovering from war.
The comfortable but elegant State Drawing Room aboard HMY Britannia
The royal couple passed the project to Sir Hugh Casson, the former director of architecture for the 1951 Festival of Britain, who redesigned the plans, creating an aesthetic that was intended to mimic a comfortable, unpretentious British country house.
To further save money, much of the furniture, linen, and decor was recycled and salvaged from previous historic royal vessels, including the Victoria and Albert III. Look for these details all over the ship.
At the launch in April 1953, the Queen christened the vessel using a bottle of Empire wine rather than expensive champagne - a nod to austerity measures that were still in place.
A video of the launch ceremony runs in a loop in the Visitor’s Center of Britannia today. Notice how the crowd breaks into a roar when she says the ship’s name - it had been a well-guarded secret, unknown up until that moment.
So let’s get into it. Here are some highlights we loved exploring on our visit.
Debbie on the Bridge of HMY Britannia
The Bridge Deck
You start up top on the Bridge, where the officers steered the ship. It looks much as it did in service, with the wheel, compass, and instruments in place. It is a good spot to picture Britannia underway on the open sea as you look out over the ship’s bow.
You’ll also be able to explore some of the decks where the officers worked and also check out the Admiral’s Quarters.
The State Drawing Room
The Drawing Room is where the Royal Family entertained guests and relaxed. It’s a HUGE room - meant to accommodate State receptions, but its decor is an interesting mix. It is set up in a warm, country-house style with big cushy couches and chairs in a flowery upholstery, with scattered tea tables for snacks and games. An electric fireplace and a baby grand Welmar piano also adorn the room - Princess Diana often sat down and played a tune at the piano. Further elegance is added with fine art pieces from the Royal Collection.
Everything feels like the royal family just stepped away - it is preserved exactly how it looked in 1997.
The long mahogany table in the State Dining Room of The Royal Yacht Britannia is permanently set with their authentic royal china.
The State Dining Room
The State Dining Room hosted formal banquets for names like Churchill, Mandela, and several US presidents. The main feature in the room is the long mahogany table - capable of seating 56 people when fully extended. The table is set with the Royal Family's fine bone china, silver and elaborate centerpieces for today’s visitor to appreciate. Staff used to set the table with rulers for precise positioning! (You can actually have an event there, how cool is that? It can seat 96 with a different set up.)
An interesting detail was the items on display around the dining room. Along the white panelled walls are a mix of eclectic diplomatic mementos. (Reminds me of how someone might put the “weird” gifts they receive in their vacation home! But of course I’m just being cheeky - the items are all much more significant than that.)
Both State rooms were understated and welcoming. The Dining Room was large for a ship, but there was no gold on every surface or that kind of showiness. It felt more like an elegant but comfortable house than a palace.
The Royal Apartments
Queen Elizabeth’s modest bedroom aboard HMY Britannia
The private rooms used by the Royal Family were modest. The Queen's bedroom and Prince Philip's bedroom were simple and comfortable, with single beds (though the rooms are connected), and not many adornments of any kind.
Prince Philip’s spartan bedroom aboard HMY Britannia.
It’s fun to study the family photos in the private rooms. In the sitting room the Queen used as an office onboard, you will spot framed photos of her children and her parents, as well as lots of other personal items on her desk, like a silver framed calendar and some kind of interesting phone/intercom device. This is good room to spot these little details - as you won’t find too many in the bedrooms!
The desk in the Queen’s Sitting Room aboard HMY Britannia
The desk itself is pretty plain - almost dorm room vibes! But I’m sure it’s all very fine quality, just modest in design. Everything in their personal rooms is surprisingly practical and unfussy.
When you walk the outside deck past the royal bedrooms, take a look at the portholes. They sit higher than the others. That was on purpose, so crew passing by could not glance in.
The private deck where the Royal Family relaxed and played on HMY Britannia
The Queen's Favorite Room - The Sun Lounge and Royal Deck
The Sun Lounge is said to have been Queen Elizabeth Il's favourite room aboard, where she would enjoy breakfast and afternoon tea. The paneled room sports eclectic comfortable furnishings - wicker chairs, soft couches and padded deck loungers.
The large windows overlook the deck where the royal family relaxed in privacy, sunbathing and playing games - if you have ever seen the video of the royal children and their cousins sliding down a water slide fitted to a set of stairs, this private deck area is where that took place.
Prince Philip sometimes would set up his easel on the deck (he was an avid amateur painter), and his original easel can be seen today in the Sun Lounge, along with an interesting story about him painting side-by-side with his friend and mentor, the artist Edward Seago, during his 1956–1957 world tour. (the painting displayed is a replica - the original is safely stored at the Royal Collection Trust.)
The Engine Room and Working Areas
Head below and you reach the gleaming Engine Room. The crew kept it spotless, and it still shines today. It is a great contrast to the elegant rooms above, and it shows the working side of a ship this size.
The impossibly clean Engine Room of HMY Britannia
Some of the other working areas belowdecks are really interesting. The Laundry area is enormous, keeping all the Officers and Yachtsmen's uniforms in tip top shape for the many uniform changes they might have to make in a day. The reason they had such a large laundry area was so Britannia could easily become a hospital ship in time of war.
This is also why the ship had extremely well appointed medical facilities. HMY Britannia’s fully operational sick bay was designed so that it could rapidly convert into a 200-bed wartime hospital ship if needed. In normal times, the medical department looked after the health and welfare of the Royal Family, the Royal Household, and the ship's crew.
It certainly does look like a “real hospital” - clean, efficient, and it seems to have everything one might need.
The Crew's Quarters
HMY Britannia was a working Royal Navy vessel with a crew of around 220 yachtsmen. Many served for years and were known as Yotties. (A playful take on “Snotties”, perhaps? - for you Royal Navy aficionados out there.)
Their quarters give you a real sense of daily life below decks. The guides will tell you the crew worked quietly near the royal areas, often using hand signals so they would not disturb the family.
Something I found particularly interesting - a permanent contingent of the Royal Marine Band was on duty on the Royal Yacht. The 26 professional musicians played at glittering state dinners and receptions on board the ship and served as an official ceremonial guard in ports of call. They played a “beating retreat” ceremony at the end of each day at sea.
Their insignia is still hanging in the crew quarters where they slept, laid out today with a display of instruments and uniforms on the bunks. (Was that a GVI cipher I saw on one of the peaked caps????) I have a strange affection for military bands - not sure why!
The Officers' Wardroom is another interesting space, especially for naval and military buffs. The space operated much like a traditional British Gentleman's Club where the ship's 20 officers gathered to dine, socialize, and relax.
The Officers’ Bar in the Wardroom Ante-Room, with a lovely signed portrait of His Majesty King George VI
There is a polished bar used for pre-dinner drinks and casual socializing, and an adjoining lounge where officers would gather before or after meals. Today this is a stop on the tour where you can sit down for a bit. It’s a lot of walking and it can be a bit tiring so a seat was a welcome reprieve!
You also get to see the central dining table where officers dined. I was surprised to learn that these dinners were highly formal affairs. Officers wore "Red Sea Rig" uniform of white short-sleeved shirt, black trousers, patent leather shoes, and a cummerbund, and closely followed several rituals. Just kind of interesting that they had their own formalities, away from the royal family.
The Royal Deck Tearoom
Enjoying delicious tea and scones aboard HMY Britannia
The Royal Deck was once used for games and entertaining; today it is home to the Royal Deck Tearoom. I was very excited about the idea of having tea aboard Britannia, so this was a “must do” for us. I would highly recommend it!
We stopped at the Royal Deck Tearoom about 10:30. They don’t serve lunch until 11:30, so we just had excellent scones and Royal Yacht blend tea. The best bonus of getting there before the lunch rush was that we were able to get a table right by the huge window.
Watching the water while we ate was just perfect - I really felt “at sea” with the Queen and her entourage, enjoying my very elegant tea and yummy scones - fruit scones for John and me, and a cheese scone for Justin. Clotted cream, jam, you know, the whole shebang.
They don’t take reservations; tables are first come first serve. The only exception is if you pre-book one of the special guided experiences like the Royal Tea on Britannia ticket that includes a scheduled group tour and treats in the tearoom on select days.
The Royal Deck Tearoom aboard HMY Britannia
A line was forming by 11:00 and by the time we left, the tearoom had filled up and the line was long. So I’m glad we went early just for snacks and didn’t have to wait with the lunch crowd.
We had good lunch options after our visit in the Ocean Terminal.
Fun things not to miss aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia
While exploring the HMY Britannia, there were lots of little details I enjoyed. Here are some worth mentioning, in no particular order:
Family photos - for Royal Family fans, there are many interesting photos of the family on the ship. Some are casual family photos of the Queen and Prince Philip with their children at various ages - from little tikes to grown adults. There are also photos of her other family members: her parents, grandparents and sister Princess Margaret.
(I did have a little fun playing my own little game of “spot the king” - George VI - as I toured Britannia and looked at the various family photos and memorabilia. There’s a lovely portrait of him in the Officer’s Wardroom.)
I particularly enjoyed some of the black-and-white framed images along the passageways that are more historic in nature, many of which were taken aboard previous royal yachts. One particular photo shows four kings - Edward VII and George V with Edward VIII and George VI as only boys. The photo is labelled in what looks to be George V’s hand, “The Three Generations, Cowes, Aug 1905. Photo by Motherdear.” (‘Motherdear’ is how George V referred to his mother, Queen Alexandra, who was a keen amateur photographer and inspired the interest in her grandchildren and on down to Queen Elizabeth II.)
Land Rover - Don’t miss the original 1983 Land Rover One Ten on display on one of the decks. When Britannia was built in 1953, it was considered essential to carry a Land Rover or Rolls-Royce, and it was hoisted into place by pulleys. It was used for transport and “royal pursuits” and fitted with lots of fancy upgrades.
Royal Barge restoration - just as you leave the ship, you can see where the 40-foot Royal Barge tender that was built in 1964 for HMY Britannia is undergoing a preservation project in a temporary dry dock. It’s rather nice to see, as I’ve always thought it to be a beautiful little launch with its wood panelling and sleek shape low to the water. You can get a very good look at it and read about the work being done.
Signal flags and Bell - These are just some little details I enjoyed along the decks. The colorful cabinet of signal flags are paired with an explanation of their nautical meanings (indecipherable!). The shining original brass ship's bell, which was presented to Queen Elizabeth II and is engraved with royal markings and the inscription "H.M. Yacht Britannia 1953” is on display on the Verandah deck. People were waiting in an orderly queue to take their photos with the bell. (of course they were!)
Trinkets in the cabinets and hanging on the walls in the Wardroom Bar. If you are interested in the military and especially the Royal Navy, at least half the ship tour explores the life of the Yotties on board. Look for interesting posters on the walls and fun items in the cabinet behind the bar in the Wardroom Ante-Room - a highly detailed silver salt cellar designed in the shape of a full-rigged ship, which originally belonged to the last Russian Czar, Nicholas II, a lovely framed portrait of my favorite King in military uniform, and a selection of premium spirits and champagne, including Royal Lochnagar single malt Scotch whisky, a distillery historically favored by the British Royal Family.
Royal sailing exhibit - a very interesting exhibit toward the end of the tour celebrates the Royal Family’s long interest in sailing. Lots of cool stuff on display if you like sailing, including a sleek polished wooden dingy named Tui. (It’s so tiny!)
Flowers - locally grown, seasonal flowers grace the State Drawing Room and State Dining Room as they are set up to look as they would for official visitors. For UK voyages aboard Britannia, those flowers would have come from the gardens at Windsor Castle. For 2026, to mark 100 years since the birth of Queen Elizabeth II, the floral displays in the State Apartments take inspiration from the Queen’s favorite flowers.
The weird little fudge shop - Ok, it’s not actually “weird”; it has a cool story behind it, but what felt weird about it is we’d been touring the ship for at least an hour and were below decks looking around at the crew areas and boom, here’s a little fudge stand. What the….?
It was actually a NAAFI canteen (or "tuck shop”) where the crew could buy cigarettes, sweets, toiletries, and little comforts from home while at sea. Fast forward to today. The Royal Yacht Britannia Trust kept that same NAAFI space and turned it into a working fudge shop for visitors. They make the fudge fresh on board, completely from scratch using traditional boiling methods to preserve naval heritage and fund the ship's conservation.
So why fudge? Because sweet treats were a morale booster and a staple of the NAAFI canteen.
Oh, makes sense now! So kiss a sailor and buy some fudge, I guess!
It’s tough to get a full view photo of HMY Britannia with the elevator bank and the messy dock in front. This is taken from Ocean Terminal mall.
Tips for Visiting the Royal Yacht Britannia
Go early. This is one of the most popular attractions in Edinburgh, and it gets more crowded as the day proceeds. Even a royal ship is still a ship so there isn’t that much room in the passages and decks to get around. And this timing will get you back on the tram into Edinburgh for lunch time.
Going early also will get you to the Tearoom area before lunch. We recommend having tea and scones, as both were very delicious. You will have a calmer visit and a better shot at a window seat. Alternatively, you can wait until after the lunch rush.
Remember to take in the scenery across the water from the rails. There’s a lot to see aboard ship but you are also in a pretty environment in the harbor. You can see the Leith East Breakwater Lighthouse from the ship.
Photos are allowed everywhere so have fun with it! We did find it difficult to get a comprehensive broad shot of the ship though, as it has a silo of lifts attached to it that blocks the wide view, and the dock in front of it is a little “messy” for a clean image. The photo from the window at Nando’s in the Ocean Terminal afterward was the best we could do! When you are in front of it, it is too big to get it all in your frame, but it’s an impressive view all the same.
Tickets - we booked ours ahead online from the HMY Britannia website, and that saves you a little money compared to buying at the door.
The “Lego Britannia” at Ocean Terminal was built from 40,000 bricks by Scottish builder Jim McDonough and has every possible detail.
Ocean Terminal, the Shopping Center Around Britannia
Leith is considered an up-and-coming area and we could see evidence of that with new housing construction both completed and underway as we rode by on the tram.
The Ocean Terminal Mall would be just your average medium-sized suburban mall if it didn’t serve as Britannia’s home.
Since we only had tea & scones on board, we were pretty hungry by the end so we grabbed lunch in the mall at “cheeky” Nando’s. The large and popular peri-peri chicken restaurant overlooks the dock with a nice view of Britannia, and it was very enjoyable. We sat there a long time looking out at the port and discussing what we had seen.
If you really want to extend the royal experience, the Fingal Hotel is nearby. This is a multi-award-winning, 5-star luxury floating boutique hotel housed in a former Northern Lighthouse Board tender ship. Permanently berthed at Alexandra Dock in the historic Port of Leith, it is about an 10-15 minute walk to the Royal Yacht Britannia.
You might want to sit down when you see the price of it. But every time John and I have splurged for a night or two at a luxury location, it’s been rewarding. Some examples of great hotel stays:
Royal Marine Band cap aboard HMY Britannia.
Visiting the Royal Yacht Britannia FAQs
Is the Royal Yacht Britannia worth visiting?
Yes. It is one of our favorite stops in Edinburgh. You get to walk through a real royal residence, from the Queen's private rooms down to the engine room. It is mostly under cover, so it works well even on a wet day. Most people spend about two hours, and it rarely feels rushed.
How do you get to the Royal Yacht Britannia?
Take the Edinburgh tram to Ocean Terminal. The ride is about 20 minutes from the city center, and the stop is right by the entrance. Lothian Buses 10, 16, and 34 also run direct. If you drive, there is free multi-story parking at Ocean Terminal. The ship sits in Leith, about 2 miles from the center.
How much are tickets for the Royal Yacht Britannia?
Adult tickets run around £23, with children roughly half that and under 5s go free. Booking online is a little cheaper than at the gate. Your ticket includes the audio guide and a 12-month annual pass. Check the official site for current prices.
How long do you need to visit the Royal Yacht Britannia?
Plan for about two hours. That covers the five decks at a relaxed pace with the audio guide. Add more time if you want tea or lunch in the Royal Deck Tearoom. With our tea & scones at the Tearoom, we spent a total of about three hours.
Is the Royal Yacht Britannia good for a rainy day?
It is one of the best rainy day picks in Edinburgh. Most of the route is sheltered, with lifts between decks. You still get a little sea air on the open deck, but you can skip that part if the weather turns.
Can you eat on board the Royal Yacht Britannia?
Yes. The Royal Deck Tearoom serves tea, scones, cakes, and light lunch. It has huge windows over the water. We had tea and scones by the window and loved it. Go early or after the lunch rush to beat the crowds.
Did Prince Charles and Princess Diana honeymoon aboard HMY Britannia?
Yes, they did. Charles and Diana spent part of their 1981 honeymoon aboard, cruising the Mediterranean for about 12 days. Three other royal couples honeymooned on the ship too, in 1960, 1973, and 1986.
Why is the Royal Yacht Britannia in Edinburgh?
HMY Britannia was decommissioned in 1997 after 44 years of service. The British government invited UK cities to submit proposals for the retired ship's permanent home, and Edinburgh won the bid. She found a permanent home at Ocean Terminal in Leith, and has been an award-winning visitor attraction there ever since.
Do you need to book ahead for HMY Britannia?
You can buy tickets on arrival, but booking online saves a little money. In peak summer months it is worth booking a day or two ahead. Quieter seasons are usually fine to walk up.
Is HMY Britannia wheelchair accessible?
Britannia is well set up for access, with lifts connecting the decks and the tearoom. Even though some passages can be tight, we noticed that the staff were very mindful of folks in wheelchairs.
Specific details change, so check the official accessibility page before you go if you have particular needs
Is the Royal Yacht Britannia good for kids?
I think children would love Britannia! There were children aboard when we took our tour, and they seemed quite interested. The child’s ticket is about half the cost of the adult ticket, and if your kids are under 5, they go free.
Britannia also runs a Summer Kids Go Free offer some years, so it is worth checking the official site for current deals.
There is plenty for kids to look at, and there is a dedicated children's version of the complimentary audio tour available. Plus, there are cute stuffed Corgis all around the ship for the little ones to “count”. What kid doesn’t love a good treasure hunt?
A photo from the detailed Map in the Visitor Center, showing the Royal Yacht being welcomed.
Where next? Other things we loved doing in Edinburgh
Some other things we loved doing in Edinburgh:
About the Authors
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John and Debbie O'Boyle are the team behind The Empty Nest Explorers. John is a professional photographer whose work has been published by The New York Times, NBC News, and Getty Images. He is a member of the American Society of Media Photographers, has been part of a Pulitzer Prize-winning team, and has received two New York Emmy nominations. Debbie is a writer and photographer with 30+ years of experience, formerly with The Star-Ledger and NJ.com. Together, they create in-depth travel guides for couples and empty-nest travelers who want to make the most of every destination. |
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